City's 'thrilling ride' delights Lonely Planet

GALWAY City gets a glowing report card in the latest edition of the world’s most popular guidebook, which describes it as arty, bohemian and one non-stop party – a mix that makes for “a thrilling ride”.

The chapter on Galway in the ninth edition of the Lonely Planet opens on such a cheery note that we could almost forget our recessionary woes.

“County Galway presents a major problem: its namesake main city is such a charmer that you might not be able to tear yourself away to the countryside. Conversely (perversely?), the wild and beautiful Aran Islands and Connemara Peninsula might keep you captive such that you’ll never have time for the city. What to do? Both, of course!”

In its section dedicated to the capital of the West, the writer lauds our brightly painted pubs heaving with music and cafes which offer front row seats to observe all the street performers.

The guide points out that although steeped in history, Galway City still has a contemporary vibe, owing to its large student makeup.

“Remnants of the medieval town walls lie between shops selling Aran sweaters, handcrafted Claddagh rings, and stacks of second-hand and new books. Bridges arc over the salmon-filled River Corrib, and a long promenade leads to the seaside suburb of Salthill, on Galway Bay, the source of the area’s famous oysters,” the guide states.

Unsurprisingly, it hails the Volvo Ocean Race as the highlight of last year and described the city as a Celtic Monaco, when “enormous globe-trotting yachts and accompanying glitterati invaded the city”.

And in a thumbs up for the massive behind-the-scenes effort for all parties involved in the event’s logistics, the guide states: “Besides spending lots of cash, the visitors inspired a general clean-up around town, including the removal of some eyesore oil tanks near the gentrifying harbour.”

This newspaper even scores a mention, when former Tribune columnist Charlie Adley describes his perfect day as sitting on a rock on the beach at Salthill watching the tide turn, and watching the world go by outside Neachtain’s pub.

The only slightly sour note is sounded about our infamous climate: “Galway is a very rainy city, even by Irish standards, and water can play a major role in your visit here, whether you’re dodging it from the skies, walking along the bay shore or exploring paths along the river, creeks and canals.”

Sheridan’s pub may not be so happy either as their pub as been banished from existence and its neighbour, Bar No 8, installed in its place below the well-reviewed restaurant.

Among the new highlights of the guide’s city review is a nod to our home grown brew, which it says is a bright spark on the country’s bleak record for beers. The creation of cousins Ronan Brennan and Aidan Murphy, Hooker is described as a tasty pale ale, which will earn visiting drinkers the respect of the locals.

Outside of the city and apart from the Aran Islands, Connemara and Inishbofin, some of the highlights recommended by the guidebook include Brigit’s Garden in Roscahill, and the less touristic hotspots of Athenry, Loughrea, Ballinasloe and Portumna.

Elsewhere, the guide is not quite so enamoured by Ireland and its people, complaining that what made us a top touristic destination is all but gone. The guide says “traditional Ireland of the large family, closely linked to church and community, is quickly disappearing” and that you have to travel to islands and isolated rural communities to find an older version of society.

It calls the new Ireland “a land of motorways and multiculturalism, planned and developed in between double decaf lattes and time-out at the latest spa for a thermal mud treatment”.